Astra J 1.7 cdti Particulate Filter is Full Continue Driving

Salut.
Conform denumirii Sport Tourer este o masina pretabila pentru distante lungi si mai nervoasa, asa ca nu o recomand pentru activitatea de taxi.
Incearca un benzinar si pune-i gaz lichefiat (GPL).
O zi buna,
Mugur

Am un Astra J, 2012, motor 1.7CDTI 110cai.
Odata cu frigul imi scade foarte repede OIL LIFE ( banuiesc ca din cauza regenerarilor), aproximativ 800km si OIL LIFE este la 83%.
Am facut drum de 200km si nu a scazut deloc.
Folosita in timpul saptamanii doar acasa-munca 20 25km/zi. ( temperaturi cuprinse intre -8 si 5grade)
Motorina Rompetrol 55.
Ulei folosit Castrol 5W30 LL, ma gandesc serios sa trec pe GM detox2 daca va trebui sa schimb uleiul la 5.000km SAU SA NU II DAU IMPORTANTA si sa reset OIL LIFE si sa schimb la 8 9000 km?

Acum ca a crescut tempereatura nu se mai regenereaza( 400km facuti si a scazut 1%). Voi pune un bec led ( multumim colegului care ne-a aratat de la care siguranta sa legam firul) si voi avea mai mare grija la regenerari.

Salut, a rezolvat cineva problema regenerarilor prea dese, ca eu nu îi dau de cap... Am verificat inclusiv injectoarele pe banc si sunt bune..acum ca a trecut frigul e mai bine dar inainte regenera intre 50 - 150 km...?

Salut, nici eu nu am gasit rezolvarea...s-au saturat de mine , cred, cei de la radacini motors . 😁 de fiecare data cand am fost.. totul este ok , inclusiv injectoare si toate cele. A venit caldura deci o sa fiu mai linistit pana la urmatoarea iarna. (Daca o sa mai am masina asta pana atunci).
Deci solutia mea aste... alta masina. De ce sa imi omor nervii si bani cheltuiti pe nimic. Nimeni nu stie nimic, nu se poate face nimic dar toti sunt meserias si stiu sa ceara bani pe...teste nu solutii.
Imi pare rau de masina , este simpatica trage bine merge fara probleme....dar stiti vorba aia, are un defect 😁 , fumeaza.
Cu siguranta o sa apara un alt meserias care o sa zica... "daca ti-ai luat diesel..." ete d'aia, ca si altii de pe aici care se plang de defectul asta.
Asa ca.. daca va intereseaza modelul astept oferte 😂😂
Salut, numai bine.

Salutari, am revenit cu feedback despre DPFUL astrei J care am luat-o pt taxi . Dupa ce masina a stat aproximativ o luna si 2 saptamani pe dreapta , i-am scos nr. de zoll si m-am dus dupa sofer la Dortmund (acolo am gasit bilet de avion ieftin) de la mine am 260 de km , deci dus intors 520 de km. Interesant a fost ca dupa ce am pornit-o na mers decat 5 minute si a intrat in regenerare din nou ... in timpul care a stat i-am mai dat 1 cheie in care a mers stand pe loc 15 min. Regeneraraea a durat cam 10 min... totul ok .. am mers dupa sofer masina sa comportat exceptional , nu si-a mai facut regenerare deloc , a mers si soferul cu ea prin sat pe la noi pe la supermarketuri sa isi ia si el o cafea una alta cam 30 de km prin semafoare putina aglomeratie ca doar e sat ... din nou nici o regenerare , a plecat inspre romania 1650 de km .. nici o regenerare , prin Romania dupa ce o ajuns , mers la RAR prin oras .. etc de vreo 2 ori la tara ... inca vreo 300 de km sa zicem , azi este a 2-a zi la taxi .. In Cluj e nebunie, semafoare, aglomeratii , coloane etc .. nici o regenerare inca . kilometraj in bord 208mii si ceva care sunt reali si asta se vede inca pe filtru de particule

Concluzie: eu banuiesc dar nu sunt sigur ca orice DPF intra in regenerare dupa o anumita perioada de timp , chiar daca sta masina pe dreapta si nu circula , asta e testat si probat de mine , pot spune cu mana pe inima ca e asa , Handlerul de la care am luat masina mi-a zis ca sta din noiembrie in parc , in ianuarie am luat-o eu , dau sa ma duc la proba ... BANG isi face regenerarea , o cumpar vin cu ea acasa ... sta in parcare o luna jumate BANG regenerare, o duce soferu acasa se mai si plimba cu ea , o scoate la Taxi si inca nici o regenerare dupa aproximativ 2500 de km facutzi...interesant pana aici . Insa nu e bine ca eu am impresia ca asa se umple de noxe ,gaze, mazga, praf, mal sau ce o mai fi de la un moment dat regenarile astea rare i fac mai mult rau ajungand in starea de super imbacsit in care oricate regenerari isi face tot e full si mergand asa cu ea ajungi sa schimbi uleiu la fiecare 1000 de km sau mai devreme , pica EGR-ul , apoi injectoarele si cred ca prima afectata e admisia care se umple efectiv de negreala de fum de diesel . Deci mie cand imi incepe si isi face regenerari la fiecare miutza de km se va interveni cu flexul asupra lui , cum zicea un coleg mai sus. .

Asa as fi zis si eu , masina e la sofer nu e la mine , are habar de masini , i-am explicat tot despre DPF ce stiam si eu i-am zis toate simptomele si el e mai paranoic ca mine ca i tare frica sa nu se strice , ca asa e intelegerea mea facuta cu soferii ca masinile daca se strica se repara pe banii lor , insa asta e prima cu DPF care o am la taxi , a fost dorinta lui sa fie diesel si nu pe benzina , si vb cu el zilnic , cu sigurantza mi-ar fi spus ca doar nu are de ce sa ascunda ... eu zic ca are de a face cu faptul ca 2000 de km au fost facutzi pe autostrada . Da is convins ca zilele astea imi va spune ca o facut regenerare .. este doar de 2 zile in regim de taxi mult nu mai tine .. nu are cum.

Revin cu feedback de la masina de taxi . Pana acum 2 luni o fost totul ok , adica isi facuse vreo 3 regenerari de cand am pus-o in folosintza la taxi de prin martie cam asa ... apoi in ultima luna (noiembrie) a inceput sa isi faca cam la fiecare 2 zile , acum recent isi facuse 5 pe zi , prea mult .... asa ca soferul a inceput sa intrebe mai peste tot unde si cum se poate rezolva problema (eu am inceput sa caut un filtru nou ) si ajunse la un service a unei cunostintze la care sa efectuat urmatoarele , filtru taiat cu flexu jos , apoi a taiat o bucata din el explican ca in interiorul lui are 10 straturi (table gaurite) si ca de regula prima e cea care face mereu probleme , rezolvarea prin taierea primei table , zis si facut apoi sa sudat tot la loc pun si niste poze sa vedetzi care e treaba insa pacat ca nu sunt in tzara sa documentez mai detaliat ce a taiat si cum ,unde si alte detalii , niste poze de la sofer care a apucat sa le faca in timpul operatiunii. Mare lucru nu se intelege din ele dar sper sa intelegetzi din mare si poate chiar va ajuta






costul fix 150 de lei , manopera de sudura si taiat cu flexu ca altceva nu a facut de fapt. Chestia asta se mai poate repeta de 2 sau 3 ori si apoi ar cam trebui alt filtru ... serviceul a garantat ca cel putin 50 de mii de km nu vor mai fi probleme poate mai mult ,apoi revin la o alta taietura ... Soferul a simtit instant la iesirea din service ca e "alta masina" adica trage muuult mai bine si uite ca de o saptamana in regim de taxi nici o regenerare ,

https://piataauto.md/Stiri/2...re-particule-DPF/

Din pacate sunt si eu fericitul posesor al unei Astra J 2013 pe care o folosim doar pentru a merge in fiecare sambata la tara 40+40km iar duminica in oras cca 10 km maxim.
Masina tocmai a facut a doua regenerare cu motorul rece - era chiciura pe toata masina - am pornit-o ca sa o dam in fata 30 cm sa putem deschide portbagajul si a aparut in bord Filtru particule plin ..... Am mers cu 50 km/h cca 20min la 2000+ rotatii si a disparut mesajul si martorul.

Cum spuneam este la a doua astfel de regenerare initiata cum a pornit masina si care a avut loc dupa cca 40km + 40km de mers in afara orasului turat, cu 60 km/h. In primii 40 km cred ca a facut si o regenerare fiindca in linie dreapta consumul a sarit de la 3.5 la 8-9l pentru cca 7-10 min.

Sincer, sunt niste idioti cei care au inventat sistemul acesta de regenerare care nu spune concret ca incepe regenerarea si ca o termina sau nu print-un mesaj sau martor sau vocal.

Si tot sincer, nu stiu unde sa ma mai duc fiindca am fost pana acum in 3 service-uri unde am schimbat 4 bujii cu senzor, acumulator AGM ai sonda lambda (fiindca avea SVS in bord- acum nu mai apare), peste tot mi se spune ca masina e super, trage foarte bine, nu apar erori pe tester si cu toate acestea regenerarea ne-a inebunit. Am ajuns sa stam cu ochii pe bord ca pe butelie sa vedem creste consumul sau nu iar cand vezi ca isi face in mers regenerarea fara avertizare, dupa care isi face imediat cum ai ponit masina si motorul e rece, iti vine sa-i dai foc si sa te minunezi cat de prost ai fost ca ai luat asa ceva.

Curatare EGR
Tutorial http://www.youtube.com/watc...9D2S&index=66

Curatare senzor MAP
http://www.youtube.com/watc...9D2S&index=80

Clapeta de acceleratie (in general-simptome si curatare)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w21RQUc-KqI

Nu stiu daca sa desfac eu si sa fac curatarea sau nu. Si mai ales daca va ajuta cu ceva. Citind ce s-a mai scris aici pare sa ajute, plus curatare clapeta acceleratie si schimbare+ resetare senzor de presiune diferentiala. Intrebarea este, apare vreo eroare pentru aceste piese sau nu?

Chiar nasol sa dai 1600 lei si sa te tina doar 1.6 luni (chiar daca in regim d etaxi -banuiesc ca masina nu a mers cate 12 ore pe zi in continuu).
Problema e pana la urma sa identifici ce anume cauzeaza infundarea filtrului din cate am vazut in indicatiile unui vanzator de astfel de filtre de pe ebay


Diesel Particulate Filter Guide to Installation & Fault Finding

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you are replacing your Diesel Particulate Filter it is highly likely that either a fault occurring elsewhere on the vehicle or the driving style has caused it to fail. A full fault diagnosis must be carried out by a fully trained technician with the appropriate diagnostic equipment to establish if the DPF needs to be replaced. The checks listed in this guide should be carried out prior to replacement to ensure the new DPF operates correctly when fitted.
By not carrying out these checks the new DPF could fail shortly after it is replaced.

How do DPFs work?
Unlike a catalytic converter a DPF is not a flow through device, it is a soot trap that collects particulates from exhaust emissions. The exhaust gasses flow into the DPF but cannot exit down the same channel as the exit is blocked. The gasses escape through the porous cell walls, but the particulate matter is too large to escape so is trapped within the DPF. The DPF disposes of this soot during a process called “regeneration” when the particulates are burnt off. On a properly functioning vehicle regeneration will occur approximately every 500 miles (this is very substantially dependent on the vehicle and driving conditions).

Why do DPFs Fail
The most common reason for the failure of a DPF is that it has become too “clogged” with soot to be able to regenerate. It is easy in this instance to simply assume the DPF is at fault and replace it, but if
no diagnostic work is carried out it is likely the new DPF will fail quickly (within 200 miles)

Initial Investigation
The best source of information is the vehicle owner/driver. The information they provide can be invaluable in identifying the fault.

What type of driving does the car do?
If the car does mostly town or city driving it is likely that the DPF has not reached the optimum temperature to regenerate and has become “clogged”. If the car does a lot of motorway driving and the car has 6 gears and theengine revs are sometimes so low that the exhaust temperature does not get high enough for regeneration to occur.
Occasional harder driving in low gears should be enough to burn off the soot in these cases.

How long has the DPF warning light been illuminated
Many DPF problems are caused by simply ignoring the warning lights that advise that the DPF needs to be regenerated. Once the DPF is around 45% full the vehicles Electronic Control Unit makes changes to the fuel injection timing to increase the exhaust temperature to burn off the particulates. If the journeys completed at this point are stop/start the conditions required for regeneration may not be met and the warning light will be illuminated indicating that the DPF is starting to become blocked. It should be possible to clear this warning by driving at speeds greater than 50mph for around 20 minutes (the engine must be running at a minimum of 2500 rpm).
If the warning light continues to be ignored or conditions for regeneration are not met the level of soot in the DPF will continue to increase, and at around 75% full the DPF will have to be regenerated
by a dealer or specialist garage. You can expect other dashboard lights to be illuminated as well. If the warnings are still ignored and the soot levels increase to around 95% you can expect the vehicle
to be put into “limp mode” by the ECU in order to protect the engine from damage due to the increased back pressure caused by the blocked DPF. At this point the DPF cannot be regenerated and will need to be replaced.

Has the vehicle been serviced recently or has the oil been changed?
If the vehicle has recently been serviced it is worth checking that the correct type of oil has been used. Most DPF vehicles require a special type of low ash oil, and using the incorrect oil can lead to
problems during the regeneration process. If the vehicle uses a fuel additive system to aid regeneration it should be checked that the additive tank has been filled. The additive tank is normally located
near the fuel tank.

Diagnostic Checks & Installation
Before fitting the DPF diagnostic checks should be carried out with an appropriate fault code reader to establish any codes held within the ECU. Comprehensive testing of the components listed below should also be carried out as a fault with one of them either alone or in combination could lead to DPF failure. Be aware that an unresolved fault with the vehicle that illuminates the engine management light will usually prevent the regeneration process from initiating and therefore the DPF will become blocked.
DPF Pressure Pipes & Sensors – checks should be made to ensure all pipes are free from damage or blockages and the differential pressure sensor is working correctly. It is best practice to replace the
differential pressure sensor when fitting a new DPF.
Oil Level – if the oil level is high this is a sign that it has been contaminated with fuel from failed regeneration attempts. The extra fuel intended to increase the exhaust temperature can find its way
into the engine sump, contaminating the lube oil and sometimes leading to a breakdown as the engine can start to run uncontrollably on its sump oil. An oil change will be necessary.
Oil Specification – check that the correct low ash oil has been used.
Fuel Additive (where applicable) – check the level of the fuel additive, and fill the additive tank as required. There is normally a manufacturer’s procedure that must be followed to reprogram the ECU to
the new additive level.
Sensor Checks – check all sensors (exhaust gas temperature & oxygen sensors) to ensure that they are operating correctly.
EGR System – check the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve is working correctly, is not blocked and is sealing correct. As a minimum the EGR valve must be removed, cleaned and checked before replacing the DPF. A faulty, clogged or leaking EGR valve will cause the DPF to become blocked.

The Following Items Must be Checked – air flow meter, engine and turbo wear, injectors (in case they are leaking or over fuelling) turbo hoses and the intercooler must be checked for leaks, correct glow plug & glow plu controller operation and the main engine ECU should also be checked for any malfunctions.

DPF Installation & Set Up
Once the fault that caused the previous DPF to fail has been rectified the new DPF can be fitted. The new DPF should be fitted loosely to line it up correctly with the rest of the exhaust system before
tightening it up. An appropriate diagnostic tool will be required to reset the ECU in accordance with the manufacturer’s guideline. This includes telling the car that a new DPF has been fitted, resetting the
ash counter and calibrating the differential pressure sensor. Failure to complete the setup procedure correctly will cause the new DPF to become blocked as the vehicle is unaware that a new DPF has been fitted and therefore the regeneration system will not have been reset.
A forced regeneration may be part of the reset procedure and some vehicles may require and ECU software update. If all guidelines have been followed a new aftermarket DPF will work in the same way as the O.E. specification unit did prior to failure. We have experienced an incorrectly diagnosed/setup vehicle to block a new DPF within 50 miles but around 200 miles is most common.

***A new DPF must be fitted by a competent mechanic/garage that has the required level of diagnostic equipment necessary to complete the set up procedure after installation - failure to adhere to this
requirement may invalidate the warranty***
If the procedures set out in this guide have not been followed the new DPF could become blocked within a very short space of time and may not be able to be regenerated.