Uleiuri - de care folosim, de ce

Severe engine operating conditions, Europe
Oil Sludge

Under "severe operating conditions" engines tend to form oil sludge if the oil change intervals are not shortened. Frequent cold starts, short-distance driving, stop and go traffic, long periods at idle speed and then occasional motorway driving encourage the formation of oil sludge.

The nitrogen oxide content of the combustion gases is increased by the high combustion temperatures in such engines. Certain amounts of these gases get past the pistons and into the oil. Reactions with fuel components lead to the formation of nitrate compounds and oil sludge precipitate. Adverse, severe operating conditions promote the formation of increased amounts of oil sludge products which, in extreme cases, can block oil channels and oil pumps. The supply of engine oil to the main lubricating points is then inadequate, resulting in inevitable engine damage.

Deposits may also cause irregular idling, impaired power development, oil pressure problems and impaired mixture formation.

Oil sludge formation can be significantly reduced using modern engine oils.

These oils contain components (additives), which largely prevent the formation of oil sludge; dispersing additives keep oil sludge precipitate in suspension and thus prevent deposition.

Additives

Additives are agents which are mixed into the basic oil in order to produce the following characteristics in the finished product: Lubrication characteristics which are technically desirable but which are not present in the basic oil, reinforce positive characteristics (wear protection, ageing protection), prevent or at least suppress undesirable characteristics (oil sludge formation).

The additive component ranges from a few ppm (parts per million), e.g. anti-foaming additive, up to concentrations of 20 %

Oil-Ageing

Even high grade engine oil ages under the influence of fuel introduction, heat, nitrous oxide from combustion gas and the oxygen in the air. Ageing is slow at first and the oil hardly changes, but once the oxidation inhibitors (additives that protect against ageing) have been used up, the oil ages much more quickly.

The oil ageing process and the degradation of the additives are accelerated by the catalytic effect of rubbed-off metal and condensation. Condensation occurs in the oil and the crankcase mainly due to driving short distances.

Several combustion products are formed during the combustion process in diesel and petrol engines, which adversely affect the engine oil.

In petrol engines, these are: Oil ageing products, partially burned and unburned fuel residues, acidic compounds, nitrogen oxides and water.

In diesel engines, these are: Soot.

These mainly oil-insoluble, solid and liquid contaminants enter the oil circuit and have an undesirable or damaging effect. Resinous and asphalt-type ageing products cause oil thickening as well as oil sludge deposition on metal surfaces.

The service literature points out that service work should be requested more frequently under "severe operating conditions". Individual items such as air cleaners, pollen filters and automatic transmissions are listed.

Engines are also included in this range of subjects.

Short Distances

"Short distances" are driving distances of less than 10 km (repeated daily). The stress on the oil and the engine wear is more than three times greater in frequent urban and short distance driving than when driving on country roads and motorways. This reduces the performance capability of the engine oil accordingly.

Infrequent Drivers

An additional engine oil and filter change is to be recommended for "low mileage drivers" with frequent cold starts or mainly urban and short journeys. Confirmation is undertaken on the separate stamp sections in the Service Booklet (not for vehicles in "ECOService-Flex" operation or high quality engine oil grades ACEA-A3/B3, 0W-30, OR GM-LL-A-025, GM-LL-B-025, 0W-40, 5W-30, 5W-40).

Engine Idling

Long engine idling times cause further difficulties (police service vehicles, taxis etc.). If the short distances or engine idling times amount to more than 30% per day, these are "Severe Operating Conditions".

Short Distance Operation / Fuel in Engine Oil

Depending on driving style, in petrol engines it is possible for fuel to enter the engine oil and dilute it. This has a negative effect on performance and/or ability to lubricate.

The number of cold starts and the distance travelled subsequently and the engine oil temperature reached during the latter have an effect.

Even at high outside temperatures (e.g. in summer) and journeys of less than 10 km, the engine oil does not become warm enough in some circumstances for the fuel in the engine oil to evaporate. Depending on the engine, it may require up to 15 km of urban travel for the necessary engine oil temperature of 80 °C to be reached.

If too much fuel is deposited in the engine oil, the ability of the engine oil to lubricate is reduced and the wear on the engine (piston rings) increases.

It is therefore advisable if frequently travelling short distances to bring forward any engine oil change due before longer holiday journeys towing a trailer and / or fully loaded and travelling over mountain passes.

Changing the Engine Oil in Severe Operating Conditions

The engine oil change intervals are twice as frequent in ECOService for vehicles being operated under "severe conditions".

If completely synthetic engine oils, e.g. ACEA-A3/B3 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30, 5W-40 are used, there is no restriction on the interval. The engine oil change interval of 1 year / 30,000 km is also valid in this case or for vehicles in "ECOService-Flex" operation.

The use of new technology engine oils (synthetic engine oils) in the ACEA A3/B3 classification, and the use of viscosity classes 0W-30 and 5W-30 have a positive effect on engine behaviour under "severe operating conditions".

Pollen Filter and Air Conditioning in ECOService-Flex Operation

The customer should be informed that in the case of vehicles with a two year interval between engine oil changes and after a main service has been undertaken that the pollen filter should be changed sooner if the air conditioning is not working as efficiently.

Particularly in countries with a high proportion of dust in the air, it may be necessary to replace the pollen filter at least once per annum.

Diesel fuel filter in ECOService-Flex operation

In these vehicles it may be necessary to drain the water out of the fuel filter every year in countries with high humidity or where lower quality fuel is used.

editat de maiandrei
sursa: Opel Technical Information System

Ce ulei de motor folositi? Eu folosesc Aral 5W-40 HighTronic mi se pare bun si momentan nu este fabricat la noi.

uleiurile ARAL sunt f bune ... si cel pt cutie e bun, asta din punctul meu de vedere. Seriile "High" atat Hightronic pt motor cat si HighPerf pt cutie sunt destinate masinilor cu peste 100.000 km ... nu se folosesc la motoarele noi.
Uleiul de motor il skimb cam odata la 12-15000 km si nu este kiar negru. cel mai prost ulei care l-am avut a fost cand am facut o pregatire pt iarna la "Gold&Platin", pe langa o carutza de bani mi-au pus ulei Helix ... care la 8000km era negru. Acum depinde si de motor. La cutia de viteze nu am mai umblat de mult timp, dar am fost la mecanic si a spus ca uleiul e in regula (cred ca are 35000).

Eu folosesc Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W40, motorul se comporta foarte bine desi vede 6000rpm de multe ori pe zi. Am avut baia de ulei sparta 2 zile, in care am mers pur si simplu fara ulei (vreo 50Km), si motorul n-a suferit nici o trauma. Il schimbam la 5000Km cu motorul cu uzura mare, desi ar mai fi facut fata la cateva mii destul de usor... probabil dupa ce o sa fie motorul gata, o sa il schimb pe la 7000-8000Km.

0W-40 este pt motoare cu grad ridicat de uzura ... deci cati km ziceai ca are calibra ta ?

DETALII IN SECTIUNEA "OPEL TUNING(ROMANIA) - TUNING PENTRU MASINA MEA"

Eu folosesc de 3 ani Castrol RS 10W 60 , motorul e C25XE .

tot 10w 60 folosesti?

salut meshteshugarilor
spuneti-mi si mie va rog care e toata treaba asta cu uleiurile? Eu am avut 3 masini pana acum si in toate am bagat uleiurile care mi-au venit la indemana, bineinteles corespunzatoare masinii. La dacia 1300 din 80 am bagat ulei de 3 ciuperci de la bunica probabil, la cielo am bagat toata seria aral , lol adica 4 tipuri, 15W40, 10W40, 5W40(sau 30? - oricum nu asta e imp) si mai la sfarsit 0W40, adica de la mineral pana la full sintetic etc, iar la Vectra din 2001 i-am bagat Castrol Magnatec care a fost in jur de 1,8cred?

DAR niciodata nu am simtit diferenta!
La dacie nu mai vorbesc, la cielo nici o diferenta intre sintetic si mineral (probabil doar la uzura, dar nimic la performantele masinii), iar Vectra a venit cu uleiul de la fostu proprietar, ulei care cred ca avea vro 15 mii de km cand l-am schimbat, DAR, din nou, nici o diferenta!

Deci va rog explicati-mi si mie care e diferenta intre uleiuri?! Eu ma gandesc ca doar la o masina sport de sport se poate simti diferenta -- asta in cazul in care chiar exista una.

Nu compar uleiurile ieftine cu cele scumpe. Dar eu ma gandesc ca nu exista un ARAL prost, sau vrun Castrol sau asa mai departe.

aaa si inca o chestie, chiar merita bagat ulei de ulei intr-o masina?? Stiu pe cineva care baga intr-o Bora diesel de 130 de cai, ulei special pt diesel, care in magazin costa 1.5 mil LITRU!! Pai asta nu e putin exagerat? Sa fim seriosi, daca nu bagi de-ala iti crapa motoru intr-o suta de mii?

So astept lamuriri!
multumesc

De la Castrol cel mai scum e SLX 0w-40, dar e prea fluid. Nu stiu exact care e pretul, poate ca spre 1.000.000