Opel vectra B 1.6,16v X16XEL da in nas si se supratureaza

Salutare tuturor detinatorilor de Opel!Sunt un fericit posesor de 10 luni al unui opel vectra B 1.6 16 v,model motor X16XEL,anul de fabricatie 1996 si am inceput sa observ de vreo cateva luni ca masina are tendinta sa dea in nas chiar si atunci cand sunt la drum lung si am o viteza constanta la 100 de km pe ora 😢 .Masina are momente cand se smuceste,iar acum a inceput sa devina o chestie care se intampla des.In oras cand o accelerez ca sa ma incadrez intr-o depasire sau sa am un demaraj un pic mai mare la a 2- a,3-a,a 4-a(nu conteaza in ce treapta)trage greu,tremura si se smuceste si apoi dupa cateva momente prinde putere de tragere.Uneori(cand stau la semafor,sa zicem) are variatii de turatie,in sensul ca scade deodata la 6-700 de rpm,se smuceste si apoi urca in turatie normala.Porneste foarte frumos dimineata,insa daca o opresc si incerc sa o pornesc a 2-a sau a 3-a oara la minute sau cateva ore in aceeasi zi, are tendinta sa porneasca mai greu a 2-a sau a 3-a cheie,iar cand porneste, pentru 10-20 de secunde ramane supraturata undeva la 3-4000 de rpm.Odata am dat la cheie de 3 ori si nu pornea.Sau uneori are tendinta sa imi dea senzatia ca porneste si doar tremura un pic si moare. De cateva ori mi s-a aprins becul galben cu o pompa si un fulger pe ea(banuiesc din cate am citit pe forum,ca e check engine) am tras mereu pe dreapta si am oprit motorul.L-am repornit si nu a mai stat aprins.In urma cu o luna am fost la tester.Singura eroare care mi-a gasit-o a fost una la airbag(statea aprins becul in bord).In rest mi-a spus ca motorul functioneaza absolut normal.I-am descris aceste treburi cu smuciturile si cu aprinsul becului galben in bord si omul mi-a spus ca pompa de benzina imi da semne de decedare si ca ma poate lasa oricand.Masina am cumparat-o din Brasov,proaspat adusa din Germania de 2 zile,iar cel de la care am cumparat-o mi-a spus sa nu merg pe rosu cu ea.De acest sfat nu am tinut cont.Am mers intr-adevar km multi cu ea pe rosu.am citit toata noaptea forumurile si am gasit fel si fel de raspunsuri(ca trebuiesc curatate toate chestiile pe la motor,verificat sonda lambda,etc)insa pe nimeni nu am vazut sa scire ca aceste smucituri pot veni din cauza faptului ca pompa de benzina este afectata si ca da semne de decedare.M-am interesat cat costa o pompa de benzina noua si mi s-a spus ca sunt 2 feluri de sasiuri(pentru un sasiu o pompa costa 430 de lei,iar pentru celalalt 820 de lei si m-am cam speriat de pret).Vreau sa stiu exact ce pot face sa rezolv aceste probleme si daca are treaba pompa de benzina cu aceste smucituri in mers si cu urcatul in turatie cand masina este repornita a 2-a sau a 3-a oara.Vreau sa mai specific ca am curatat acea valva vizibila la motor care are o mica gaura si un furtunas subtire(se poate vedea in poza) pentru ca se depusese multa melamina ,cred ca are treaba cu aerul(ceva de vacuum).Vreau sa rezolv problema pentru ca se apropie sezonul rece si ma gandesc ca va fii mult mai rau pentru masina.Va multumesc anticipat si ma bucur ca ma aflu pe acest forum al opelistilor.Toate cele bune si imi cer scuze pentru textul lung.

multumesc pentru sfat, o sa verific asta...toata lumea spune ca aceste motoare sunt ceva mai pretentioase,insa eu consider doar ca nu m-am comportat cum trebuie cu el...pentru ca motorul asta torcea cand am luat masina.acum caut si un service bun in buzau si am citit pe forum ca undeva la posta calnau e un baiat bun...cand am ocazia o sa dau pe la el...

Daca nu ai eroare pe tester ai un pic de munca.
Ai de verificat fisele, bujii, furtunele de vacuum, MAP-ul, IAC-ul, EGR-ul, bobina, injectoarele, pompa de benzina etc. Motorul asta e foarte bun cand e bine pus la punct si nu consuma ulei.

incearca egr-ul

fi atent,am avut acees lucru si eu la una exact 1996 cu motor 1,6 16v .. 1 la mana schimba bujiile,sigur nu le-ai schimbat deloc, si 2 dai forja ai un injector infundat de la benzina proasta,pun pariu ca ai bagat doar de la luckoil sau benzinari normale in Mare parte...dc nu se desfunda jiglerele dute la cineva sa le faca cu el pe o baterie la 12 v si suflate cu aer presiune, si tot asa cred ca ai consumul mai mare decat era inainte cand ai cumparato.nu? ast un rasp sa vedem dc ai rezolvat

consum mare la x16xel? ulei papa? daca da, ai sanse de sonda lambda obosita. Si sonda lambda obosita inseamna amestec incorect....

pai atunci du-te la cineva care are o interfata de diagnoza, si verificati sonda lambda. Verificarea se face cu motorul cald (adica pornesti motorul, il lasi sa ajunga la temperatura de lucru, ca sonda lambda trebuie sa se incalzeasca, si la al tau nu mai tin minte daca sonda lambda are preincalzire sau se bazeaza strict pe esapament)
Bineinteles, nu are sens sa schimbi sonda lambda pana nu rezolvi consumul de ulei, pentru ca in cateva luni o s-o distrugi din nou...

daca s-a aprins beculetul galben atunci s-au stocat erori... cauta aici pe forum metoda "agrafa" si citeste erorile.. apoi posteaza-le..

Am facut testul cu agrafa.Pe pinii 3 si 4 imi am numerotat 10-1-1-5 la beculetul galben...nu stiu care este eroarea.Imi poate spune cineva va rog?

uite ce am gasit aici pe forum:

P0115 - GM Type Powertrain - Fuel and Air Metering - ISO/SAE Controlled
Description

ECT Sensor Circuit Conditions
Cause

Key on or engine running, then the PCM detected that the IAT sensor input was -40°F, or that the IAT input was 284°F, either condition met for 500 milliseconds.

What does that mean?

The ECT (Engine coolant temperature) sensor is basically a thermistor that changes resistance with temperature. Usually a two wire sensor, a 5Volt reference from PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and ground signal to PCM. This is different from a temperature SENDER (which usually operates the dash temperature gauge and operates in a similar way as the SENSOR, only it's a different circuit than what a P0115 is referring to). As the temperature of the coolant changes, the resistance changes on the ground signal to the PCM. When the engine is cold, the resistance is high. When the engine is warm, the resistance is low. If the PCM detects a voltage condition that seems abnormally low or high, P0115 will set.

Symptoms

Symptoms of a P0115 DTC code may include:

MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) illumination will always occur
Vehicle may be hard to start
May blow a lot of black smoke and run extremely rich
Engine may want to die or backfire in tailpipe
Engine may run lean and increased Nox emissions may be apparent (Requires gas analyzer)
Cooling fans may run all the time when they shouldn't be, or not at all when they should be

Causes

Usually the cause can be traced to a bad ECT sensor, however that doesn't preclude the following:

Wiring or connector damaged at sensor
Open or short in reference or signal circuit
Open or short in signal circuit
Bad PCM

Possible Solutions

First, visually check the sensor for damage to wiring or connector and repair as necessary. Then, if you have access to a scanner, determine what the temperature of the engine is. (If you don't have access to a scan tool, using the dash temperature gauge may not be an effective way to determine coolant temperature. This is because the P0115 code is referring to the ECT SENSOR, and the dash gauge is operated by, usually a one-wire SENDER. Basically a different sensor that the code doesn't refer to.)

2. If the engine temperature is abnormally high, around 280 deg. F, that's abnormal. Unplug the sensor on the engine and see if the signal drops to, say, negative 50 deg. F. If it does, then it's a good bet the sensor is bad, internally shorted, causing a low resistance signal to be sent to the PCM. However if you want to be sure it's the sensor and not the wiring, there's a couple tests you can do. With the ECT sensor unplugged, check that you have 5 volts on the reference circuit with KOEO (Key on engine off). Also you can check the resistance of the sensor to ground using an Ohm meter. The resistance of a normal sensor to ground will vary a little depending on the vehicle, but basically, if the temp of the engine is around 200 deg. F., the resistance will be about 200 Ohms. If the temperature is about 0 def. F., the resistance will be over 10,000 Ohms. With this test you should be able to tell if the resistance of the sensor matches the temperature of the engine. If it's not accurate according to your engine's temperature, then you probably have a bad sensor.

3. Now, if the temperature of the engine according to the scanner is around 280 deg. F. and unplugging the sensor doesn't cause the reading to drop to negative 50 deg. F, but it stays at the same high temperature reading, then you'll need to repair the short on the signal circuit(ground) to the PCM. It's shorted directly to ground somewhere.

4. If your temperature reading of the engine according to the scanner is showing negative 50 deg. F or so, (and you don't live in the arctic!) unplug the sensor and check for a 5V reference present at the sensor.

5. If there isn't, then check at the PCM connector for proper 5V reference. If it's present at the PCM connector, then repair the open or short on 5V reference from PCM. If there is no 5V reference present at the PCM connector, then you're done with your diagnosis and you may have a PCM fault. 6. If the 5V reference circuit is intact, then check the ground signal to the PCM using the previous ground resistance test. If the resistance isn't normal for the temperature of the engine, then ohm the resistance of the ground signal to the PCM by removing the ground signal wire from the PCM connector. The wire should have no resistance, unplugged from the PCM to the sensor. If it does, repair open in the signal to the PCM. If it doesn't have any resistance on the ground signal wire and the resistance test of the sensor is normal, then suspect a faulty PCM.

adica mai pe romaneste : este ceva la senzorul temperatura motor.. asta se afla langa termostat pe furtunul gros ce vine de la radiator.. poate nu indica bine... oricum merita verificat vizual contactul electric.. poate fi si masurat.. scrie mai sus cum..